It Does a Body Good

I spent the weekend at Iskandar Kul, a lake in the Fan Mountains that as the legend goes is the watery grave of one of Alexander the Great's horses. How Alexander the Great could have made it through these mountains with an army is beyond me, but the lake itself is gorgeous and makes a fine destination for anyone looking for respite from the dust and heat of Dushanbe. Besides the lake, there are several snow-fed rivers and springs including some holy ones across the road from the president's vacation home. And with all the water around, there are lots of grassy meadows and more trees than I've seen anywhere else in Tajikistan. Walking in a village above the lake, my friends and I met a guy on a donkey who offered some fresh yoghurt. With nothing else to give in return, I handed him my Nalgene bottle for a drink of water. Sensing that he could trade up, our donkey-riding friend absolutely refused to take his yoghurt back but also wouldn't give back the Nalgene. We were a little pissed, but after swimming in the river and finishing the bottle, we decided that everyone came out ahead.